Koala (29), Gallery, Grampians

A little video of me sending Koala thanks to Flash. Red duck on belay.

Autumn is on the way

Hey Gang,

Well as you've read in Al's post, it has been crazy hot down here. For us city dwellers climbing has been limited. After having most of January off (see Tasmania post) it has been difficult being back at work and only getting the occasional weekend off. Although those few and far between days are basically sweatbox, sauna torture, they have been great fun.

I can finally report on some news I've had since Christmas, although many of you may already know. I have recently joined the Expedition Equipment Team, representing Red Chili, Wild Country and Prana. I'm very excited about this opportunity. If you're on facebook, you probably have already seen the link to their page I sent you. Jump on it, cause you can read news, reports and stay in touch with new gear thats coming in. Otherwise it's here, www.expeditonequipment.com.au

Not much to report in terms of tickage, but I've jumped on a few things of late I've been eyeing off.

Firstly, I jumped on Le Petite Mort, 29ish at the Gallery. Is 'ish' now as an undercling that was used for clipping and initiating the crux sequence was rudely busted off by Hank the Yank some years ago. I worked out a new way of entering the crux, however was thwarted by the tropical conditions and blew a fuse. Sutter is the only one I know who's done it since the hold broke, and agrees it adds some curry.

Secondly, I have worked out all the moves on a project of mine dubbed Afro Warrior at Little Hands. This is a rising traverse that enters the crux of my Substance D, 29 but from the wrong side. Basically a 4 move V6? at the end of a 18m roof traverse. Quick, call an Ambulance cause this thing will be fully sick!

Spent another couple of hot days at Muline with Arnie and some other locals. I didn't do much climbing there because the routes I want to try are in the sun most of the day at this time of year. I did however lug my new camera kit up and did a test shoot of Arnie on Middle Path, 28. This was aimed at getting to know my new kit (7D and Tokina 11-16mm f2.8). This rough cut diamond is just that 'rough' and for good reason. I'll prepared and out of time, shooting it in the 30 mins we should have been already on the road back to Melbourne. Hopefully its the start of more to come, video that is. Lots of ideas - just have to learn how to edit and make things nicer.



Oh, almost forgot. The annual Bayside Boulder Bash was on last weekend. Good to have some new fully rad (long and pumpy) problems in the gym. I had a shitter and without devulging to much information, what happened was a long time coming and my awareness of it now as prompted me to seek professional help. This, while in some ways very difficult for me can only be a good and positive thing for my climbing. That said, there were some really strong performances. The little man from Sheffield, Tom Haigh took out the win with some really impressive flashes. Well done mate.

Anyway, I'm heading up this weekend for a couple days with the intention of filming some routes at Little Hands and of course having a crack at Afro Warrior (watch this space). \

Righteo. Enjoy the weekend peeps

- Grosey.

A Wimmera Summer.

According to the calendar, summer is nearing its final days. Farmers have completed their harvest, and the place now looks and feels like a barren dustbowl. Sweltering hot evenings of unescapable heat. The shrill of cicadas become just more background noise at night. With still a couple of weeks of warm whether to come, there is a hope that the worst of a hot summer in Victoria’s wheat belt is just a memory. (note, this inspired piece of introductory poetry was written while at work on a 38 degree summer day)

Climbing during summer out here is a game of luck. Some days are so hot that the oppressive strangle hold of the sun is all foreboding and unrelenting. Others can remind you of a perfect winters day. Blue sky, gentle breeze, and a pleasant 21^oC ambient temperature.  I’ve never been a fan of the heat. Especially climbing in the heat. The cooling attraction of the gullies, and walls hiding in the shadows however, have reinspired my faith in summer climbing. I do feel very fortunate to be able to take full advantage of summer evenings out here. After work climbing on some of the best rock and routes in the country, in the cool of the shade, on a mild summer evening, does have certain charm about it. Where climbing becomes lifestyle rather than ‘just that thing I do on the weekends’. Or maybe it becomes ‘just that thing I do after work, but before dinner’. 

On the cooler evenings, I was able to get and out climb some great routes like Unrequited, 27, Ciela, 28, and Power, Corruption and Lies, 27. I even got a run up the brilliant Skink, 18, for the first time, in the middle of a string of low 20's days. Plus a slew of other routes done all over the place with different folks.

Chris sending Unrequited on a Wednesday evening.

Chris on Ciela, Thursday afternoon.

Chilly evening afterwork climb with the boys.

Josh in Ethopia

Living out here has changed my perspective on where climbing sits in my life too. I now see a way of making the thing I love doing so much, a part of my life, without it becoming overpowering, overburdening or oversaturated.

Too hot to climb? Never mind. Wake-boarding on Green Lake with Taipan in the background.

But as goes with life, circumstances continue to evolve. As Robert Burns so eloquently put it,

"the best laid plans of mice and men often go astray"

University started up again this week, and my proposed idea of living in Nati while studying by correspondence has not come into fruition. I came out here to try and work and climb. Mission accomplished. But I came out here because I could work and climb. I got to work in a field that is where I wish to end up in after my studies. And in order to get back here in the future, full time, I need to make sure I’m fulfilling my desire to learn and educate myself as well as I can. After all, I climb because I love it, and I’m at school because I love it.

To study by correspondence for what I want to learn, would not provide me with the feeling of accomplishment. Of having got all I could from my education.

So, with summer ending, and the days getting shorter, I’ll be returning to Melbourne. For the first semester I will still be based in Nati, catching the train back and forth for 3 days in the city every week. Climbing and school occurring in harmony. Well, hopefully. Come second semester, there is a good chance I’ll be back in Melbourne until I finish the degree, with perhaps another Wimmera summer squeezed in there.

Sunset from Claires farm in Pomonal. 

-TheBigAl